Journal

Wave Check: Chuns

by Keoki Saguibo

4 years ago

Surfing the North Shore is a surfers must-go-to destination at some point in their life while the seven mile miracle has been on the surf map for over six decades and is still a must travel to place season after season. Apart from what you see on Social Media or the web, big hollow rides are the most sought after type of waves during the winter months but when the season winds down, tucked in a few crannies on the coast you can find fun, less life-threatening waves to be had. One spot in general, Chun's Reef, has been the go to spot from beginners to seasoned pros that is a good introduction to the North Shore waves and when conditions are just right, one of North Shores primed longboarding waves.

Chun’s is a dominant right-hander that lasts anywhere from 10-20 secs and is very acceptable to most swells meaning it will break on almost any direction and even swells you would never think to reach the North Shore. The crowd is the main hindrance at Chun's and it does get very busy in the morning and afternoon sessions while being mixed with surf schools that litter the line up in the middle of the day.

Rosie Jaffurs @rosiejaffurs Zye Norris @zyenorris Sierra Lerback @sierralerback

Justin Michalek @jstsrf

Rosie Jaffurs @rosiejaffurs

As accepting as the wave is, there's still a solid sense of respect needed and a good sense of etiquette in the lineup. With two main peaks, it is very easy to drop in on folks coming from the main peak which usually ends with people getting hit or runned over. There have been a few close incidents where on small days, people have been knocked unconscious in the water, not by their board or the wave but from other surfers boards by not paying attention or letting go of their boards when a wave is approaching. All in all a good sense of others and proper etiquette will make your session much more pleasing for you and everyone else.

Chun's is a friendly-fun wave in the head high and under range but gets pretty rough fast when heights are in the over head size. A rip current is easily visible when the waves reach in the 3-5 ft height, a clear indication that the spot is maxing out. Although with the right swell direction, you can surf Chun's in the well double-overhead range, it's usually a pretty empty line up at this height but other spots along the North Shore start to light up. It would be wise to give this spot a proper go before heading to other notorious spots on the North Shore where danger is more imminent and the level of surfing is usually higher at the more popular spots.

Sierra Lerback @sierralerback